There are cookbooks that I think I would still buy, full price, if it only had one recipe. There’s the Banana Everything Cookies from Vegan Cookies Invade Your Cookie Jar. There is the Stir-fried Tofu, Shiitakis and Green Beans from Vegan For Everybody. And, because this post is about something brunchy, there is the hollandaise sauce from Vegan Bowl Attack by Jackie Sobon.

That isn’t, of course, to say that the rest of the book is no good. It’s just that this recipe gets made so much it justifies the price. It’s so quick and easy. In that respect completely unlike a traditional hollandaise, but the taste is exactly the same. It’s perfect on the bowl it belongs to or on top of a eggs Benedict type concoction usually with whatever seasonal veg we have on hand. Purple sprouting broccoli, asparagus or – like here – samphire.